I Just received my Magnus & Invictus , this is also the first MK4 models I have gotten. Overall the quality of these minis is amazing, soo much detail, the only concern I have is on the top plate right above Invictus head is some print lines. do I have to sand those or will primer cover them? Or can I melt them with some kind of Sprue GU or other mix?
On a side note the detail is insane, I played GW and some Warmachine back in the late 90’s and wow so nice.
thanks for any help with that.
Hello! The answer is: it depends on how deep the lines are. 
I’ve had some very light “feathering” on parts that is visible in sunlight but which disappears under primer, and other times I’ve had some slightly deeper lines that don’t get filled.
I don’t have much experience with sanding printed models, so I can’t answer that question.
When in doubt, you can always request replacement parts at https://mispack.privateerpress.com, or (as far as I know) contact customer service at frontdesk@privateerpress.com.
And, in regards to detail: you’re telling me! The day I opened up a Khador box and had single-piece warjacks (not counting the heads and arms, obviously) and single-piece infantry…oh man! That single-piece standard bearer was amazing!
I would not try to melt them as they are resin. You could sand them, but as they are resin you should wear a mask or respirator and do wet sanding.
You could also use greenstuff or a filler of some sort to try to help clear it up as well.
Also, be sure to take pictures and send them to PP in an email so that they have this as a quality control data point.
Sanding is an option, as Malkav has said take precautions. Other options include using filler primers (possibly in combination with sanding, I don’t have much experience with them), gloss primers (these can reduce visibility of lines, a heavy application of gloss primer is usually enough for my home prints), or perhaps a Milliput wash (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EY8Acdi59M0, again it might take a bit of sanding to get a smooth surface afterwards).
I have found that for fixing larger print issues I need a combination of a sandable primer and milliput gap filling/washes, followed by sanding then priming again. But that’s only really for big issues or getting a REALLY good surface, for normal stuff a bit of sanding and a gloss primer does it for me. Again, that’s for home prints, I don’t have experience with PP’s printed models yet.
A gloss primer will probably hide most of it.
If you use any washes or dry brushing, those will definitely catch stuff.
I suppose you could go for a wood texture…
Those print lines on that piece are in a very visible spot on the model. I’ve received worse pieces (in the first run of the first battleboxes) and PP didn’t replace them, so I don’t think they’d replace that one either.
That said, it shouldn’t take much effort to lightly sand the spot that looks like it has a fingerprint on it. Or you could very, very, very carefully and lightly scrape it with a hobby knife. Just wet the surface before working on it so as not to inhale the resin dust.
Use a liquid greenstuff/ milliput wash that will hide these issues pretty easily, in the case you have there a couple of coats of primer should do the trick, or a gloss varnish will smooth it out.
When I get aliasing artifacts/print lines on my models somewhere I think they will be highly visible (typically on big clear plates like on Invictus here) my usual process is:
After this I (gesso) prime and it is almost always invisible unless I missed some. I tend to turn the model over in my hand before starting to see if the light catches any lines.
Mostly this is overkill, and primer will hide the lines. It is also possible to sand/scrape post-primer and then prime again if you really want to go deep into artifact worry.
Just FYI: aliasing is when you get artifacts in an image, due to things like pixel boundaries etc. Anti-aliasing is meant to remove those artifacts.
Example here with liquid green stuff:
most of the time it does the job, sometimes need an additional layer. Advantage is that you can do it with a brush, avoid the risk of resin dust for your beloved lung cells division process, and, allow to reach point difficult to sand.
Note that I usually have a rather “tick” painting style and if you are really light on paint and use a lot of inks, you might need to make tests.
pip
Er yes. Too much recent discussion about how to fix a few artifact issues bled over here, I think.
